The last few days have been full of adventures and sightseeing!

It was up and at ’em at 5:15.am on Friday, the 19th, for a day long tour with the TerraDiversa tour company.    The Devil’s Nose Train and Ingapirca tour was sure to make for a fun day getting outside Cuenca.

Due to the high rain weather forecast, the tour company contacted me the night before to arrange for an earlier pick-up time.  The tour guide rescheduled for pick up at my place of stay at 6:15am.  As it turned out he was an hour late.  He had not been informed that I was lodging in a home so he had been to several places of lodging accommodations in the immediate area in an attempt to locate me.  Thankfully, he (Luis) came driving down the street and spotted me standing on the sidewalk.  Then it was off to pick up another person across the city that was to join the tour.  The lady was not waiting at her pick-up spot as agreed upon.  The guide went looking for her in the area on foot.   Long story short, he found her splayed out on the bathroom floor in her place of stay (someone had let him in).  Who knows how long she had been unconscious.  Once conscioius, the guide suggested she seek medical care to insure she was free from injury and advised that it was in everyone’s best interest that she reschedule going on the tour at another time. So…off the tour group goes, finally! So much for an early start!!!

Our first tourist attraction of the day was to be the famous Devil’s Nose train ride out of Alausi.  The Devil’s Nose is a section of the Ecuadorian train track between the cities of Quito and Guayaquil.  The  section of the train track running between the Alausi and Sibambi stations was the one we were to take.  It is named Devil’s Nose because of the number of deaths  that occurred during it’s construction and the sheer difficulty of the construction itself.

We traveled along the Pan American highway for what was typically a three and a half hour drive to Alausi.  The highway surface quality varies from one stretch of road to another.  There were the typical cars, trucks and buses traveling along the two lane highway; making it three lanes if passing was involved.  The guide shared there were frequent land slides due to land erosion on the mountain sides.  It was obviously so as we traveled along.  A significant landslide had occurred outside Canary about three weeks prior in which seven people lost their lives.  He commented he hoped the highway was back open.  Well, the second delay of the day lay just ahead of us.  Sure enough, the highway was still closed and there was a diversion around it via country roads.  There was bumper to bumper traffic sporadically along the way and numerous stand stills for long periods of time.  It was eventually obvious we weren’t going to make the 1:00pm train we were scheduled for.  So everyone is thinking, “What a bummer!”

The mountainous countryside included beautiful fields and numerous dairies with indigenous Ecuadorian farmers working them.  We had seen off-highway scenery we would not have seen if it hadn’t been for the diversion.  There were absolutely no complaints!

The train was pulling out of the station as we pulled up in front.  Our guide took his job most serious and set about problem-solving.  Ultimately, he proposed driving the tour group to the Sibambe station (about a 40 minute drive) so we could make the return train ride to Alausi.  Each agreed and off we went.  The drive to the Sibambe station was an adventure all it’s own.  It included the equivalent of off-roading down narrow dirt roads and driving through several small villages.  At a fork in the road, the guide had to ask for further directions.  Fortunately, there was someone to ask!  As we neared the Sibambe train station it was noticed there were partial remnants of the train track rails from over a hundred years ago.  Our Ecuadorian tour guide was like a kid in a candy store as these were discovered.  He commented we were seeing something that few have seen in many a year with the exception of the few indigenous of the immediate area.  So…we stopped for photos to mark this momentous occasion.  It was a thrill to see our tour guide so ecstatic.

Believe it or not, our tour group almost missed the train…”again”.  While it was nice to ride the train and experience the infamous zigzag track along an almost perpendicular mountain face, the adventures of day and the scenery taken in prior to the train ride was much more impressive.

As if that wasn’t enough, this was only the first of two attractions for the day.

I’ll save sharing about the second attraction for another post.

The last few of days included celebrating Mother’s Day and spending time with a new friend and Ecuadorian Mama, Pilar (Pily).   It has been easy to integrate into daily life here in Cuenca even if time here is considered exploratory.

I would never have imagined to be 2,550 miles from home and receive an invitation to an Ecuadorian home for a Mother’s Day celebration.  The invitation was extended by Pilar whom an AirBnB stay for next week here in Cuenca is scheduled.  It was an opportunity to meet her and learn about Ecuadorian customs.  I inquired about what to bring for the celebration.  The response was that everyone brings something to contribute to the meal.  Wanting to insure proper etiquette, I talked with current host, Omar, about Mother’s Day customs learning it ranks right up there with Christmas celebrations.  He shared it would be appropriate to gift the hostess with flowers or a bottle of wine along with taking a dish for the dinner.   It was trippin’ to think I was going to attend my first Ecuadorian celebration.

I decided on a cake from one of the many bakeries (panadoria’s) and flowers for Pilar from one of the flower markets.  Sunday morning I stopped at several bakeries before deciding on an executive chef quality chocolate cake.  Then it was off to the flower market to purchase flowers from one of the indigenous vendors.

Boy, did I feel as if I fit into the community as most everyone walking up and down the sidewalks were carrying cakes, flowers and balloons.  I found Pilar’s home (or rather her son’s) with no problem.   Pilar greeted at the door as if we were longtime friends.   I was introduced to family members and a number of her expat friends.  All in all there were 15 people gathered to celebrate Mother’s Day.  There were Pilar’s  two grown children, Daniel and Sophi, and their families, Maggie and Debra (mother and daughter from Texas), Jane, Mark, Dwight, and Claude. While I didn’t catch where everyone was from, Debra and I hit it off immediately; being two gals with Texas roots.  The food was great and one would have thought I socialized with this group on a regular basis.  Conversation flowed from one topic to another laced with laughter a plenty.  I left the celebration feeling like I had become a part of an Ecuadorian family.

Monday, Tuesday, and a portion of today was spent with Pilar.  Not only does she operate an AirBnB,  but she offers numerous services to potential expats.  She provides guidance to those seeking information/assistance with obtaining one of a variety of  Visas, gaining information about the various areas of the city, or exploring housing needs and options.

Pilar has been informative and thorough.  She took me to a small mall as well as the largest mall in the city.  One would think they are in the US when visiting these.  We  wandered through Supermaxi (the equivalent of an American grocery store) and  Sukana and Juan Eljuri (two home goods stores).  Plus our itinerary included checking out a store comparable to Walmart.  One store walk around revealed the purchase of a Kitchen Aid mixer in Ecuador requires you’re pockets be lined with gold.  They range from $600 – $850.  No joke!  Most grocery store items are highly priced because of import taxes.  With this in mind, research and the advice of others suggests shopping for as many of your grocery items as possible at the mercados.   Oh yes, we did make a stop for a walk around at the largest fruit and vegetable market in Cuenca.  In the end, I was more impressed with several of the smaller ones.

Time with Pilar  included visiting a variety of areas in what is considered the new city, She arranged for me to view about 7 different apartments outside the city center.  The apartments ranged widely in price, size and amenities.  It is incredible what one can rent for a total montly housing cost of $450 – $800.  Ovens and dishwashers are not typically found in apartments.  Some come furnished; some not.  Some have views to die for; some not.  For those with views, it’s like being back in Portland, Oregon and having one of those to die for city or Mt. Hood views at a fraction of the cost.

Pilar said she wanted to show me one of the hospitals and asked if I was interested.  I said, “Sure”.  What I though would be a drive by actually turned into a partial tour of a hospital complex itself.  We wandered through the medical clinic facilities, pharmacy and three emergency room facilities that offer different levels of emergency care.  So…I have already made my first visit to the emergency room here!  LOL!!!  Pilar shared we wouldn’t be permitted to enter the actual hospital facilities itself to get a glimpse of the patient rooms.  Oh, but she did try to get us in.  I’m following behind her and all of sudden I hear security trying to get her attention, “Senora, no entrada!”  So…I didn’t get to see a hospital room but I did get glimpses inside examining rooms.  They are much like what we are accustomed to in the US.  The exception being the doctor has a desk in the examining room itself.  Pilar shared a typical doctor visit is 30 minutes in duration.

My brain is on overload at the moment but I’m trippin’ on insights gained into Cuencan and Ecuadorian living.

PS…the photos are unrelated to the post but hope you enjoy them all the same.

What would life be like without experiencing Ecuador?  An opportunity presented itself to travel here for a month long stay.  Thanks to my daughter, Betsy, the international travel bug is firmly engrained and consideration of international living something to ponder.  After several months of planning, resigning my position at Georgia Institute of Technology and attending the International Living Conference in Atlanta, Georgia last weekend, I made my way to Ecuador.

First stop, Cuenca Ecuador!  To be honest, it is difficult to put into words what the last day and a half have been like.    Exhilarating to say the least!  Let’s see…let me ramble…Cuenca is a city of about 580,000 people surrounded by lush green mountains, canopied by beautiful blue skies with lingering cotton candy clouds, mild temperatures with no humidity, and an occasional rain shower.

The people are friendly, helpful, welcoming and notably exchange warm smiles.  Ladies, mothers and daughters, and young girls walk down the sidewalks arm in arm.  Mothers carry their newborn babies swaddled in blankets or in baby slings.  Are you getting the picture…no baby stroller sightings here.  Cuenca is a  clean, walkable city with captivating architecture, cathedrals, museums a plenty, markets, and great food and snacks.  There’s so many sights to see and information to gather over the next few weeks in this city.  Fun and interesting it will be!!!

The last day and a half has flown by.  Yesterday started out with a walk to the city center; about a 10 block walk from where I am staying.  I wandered around the city center park, Parque Calderon , visited the tourist office, had the daily lunch special at the Tia Pepita for $2.30 and explored more of the center city area.  While at lunch I had a conversation with an expat, Sarah.  She informed of a free orchestra event at the Theatre Sucre that evening.   It seemed like Cuenca might live up to it’s reputation of offering free entertainment a plenty.   Eventually I made my way back to the B&B for a brief rest, had dinner at a nice Italian restaurant, Mangiare Benne Restaurant, and then walked back to the city center to attend  the I Temporada 2017 XIV Concierto, directed by invited Enrique Victoria Obando from Peru.  What a nice relaxing way to spend a Friday evening!  I ran into Sarah again and had a brief conversation.  While standing in line waiting for the theatre to open I  met a couple from Anacortes, Washington, Jane and Larry.  We sat together for the concert and continued to visit.  I learned they occasionally stop in for coffee at Penguin Coffee where my niece, Nikki, is employed.  The orchestra was “excelente” and the event standing room only.

Oh, what a day!!!

(Update: I recently learned Jane and Larry stopped by the coffee shop and shared with Nikki that they had met her aunt in Ecuador).

Today included another walk to the city center.  I enjoyed a parade commemorating the 100th anniversary of the Luis Cordero Crespo School and then went on the North Cuenca city tour via VanServices.com by way of a double decker bus.  The tour included a stop at the Homero Ortega Panama Hat Museum.  What a treat!  Reminded me of the days my ex-mother-in-law, Inez, worked for Texas Miller Hats.  My kids, Toby and Betsy, never suffered from want of a western hat. Back at the city center I met expats from Arizona, Bernie and Nancy, who approached me to engage in conversation on the sidewalk, had lunch at another Italian restaurant where I watched a photographer doing a photo shoot with a model.  A group of men from one of the graduating classes that marched in the parade earlier in happened to pass by.  Of course, they wanted their photo taken with the beautiful model.  It seemed the photographer was happy to oblige.  No doubt, these former classmates were enjoying their time together.  Again, I found myself in the midst of a long visit with a Canadian and a Texas expat, Susan and Beverly, before leaving the restaurant.  And, no, I didn’t initiate the conversation with them either.  For those who don’t know me, I have a reputation for initiating conversation with strangers.  With this in mind it is an anomaly for others to approach me.

The afternoon was filled with a South Cuenca city tour that included a drive to the Turi overlooking the city.  While waiting for the tour bus I enjoyed seeing a group of young guys break dancing in a gazebo at the city center park.  Final stop at the city center for the day: a small flower market.

It was interesting to experience Cuenca on a Saturday.  Families and friends were leisurely walking along the sidewalks, having their shoes shined, enjoying a snack, having a quiet sit on a park bench, or taking a city tour along side me.  Certainly not the hustle and bustle of a weekend back in the US, but certainly an active, enjoyable one.  One observation is that people seem to simply enjoy the company of others.

Well, tomorrow is another day…it will be interesting to see what trippin’ experiences it will bring….